Sodwana 2023
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'"Dance with the waves, move with the sea. Let the rhythm of the water set your soul free."

Christy Ann Martine

We find ourselves back in our little wooden house at Sodwana to find all the wonderful things the ocean has to offer. To add to this sharp anticipation we are sharing this holiday with our beautiful family, as well as friends, old and new, so this year's trip is extra special. As a family sport diving is hard to beat. It adds enjoyment and common ground which transcends age and ability and generational ambiguity. So we invite you to join us on this unifying and fun filled trip to share the best of Sodwana 2023.

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A Fever of Rays

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A fever of rays is the correct collective noun for this elegant and graceful group of marine fishes. There is no shortage of many different rays in Sodwana. Sometimes I guess this coincides with prey availability and mating or sea conditions and season. Some of the reefs like Stringer, and even Bikini south, can be surrounded by a huge number of rays on one day and gone the next. The numbers are often best appreciated as you ascend, parked like aeroplanes against the reef. Round ribbontailed rays, leopard stingrays, thorntailed stingrays and sharpnosed stingrays are most common, and the marbled electric rays always lurk around Stringer, hiding in plain sight. In addition the ultimate ray, the mighty Manta, is also an infrequent visitor, together with his smaller cousins the eagle rays.

This year we had one unusual day on Stringer when the cleaning station on Big Stringer was covered in rays. They were literally lying on top of each other. Mostly Ribbon rays but some Sharpnose and Leopard rays as well. I can only assume these were gathered for mating. There was a lot of testosterone in the water on that day.

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Round ribbon tail Stingray, Taenuria meyeni


Stingrays are cartilaginous fish that inhabit coastal waters and are largely bottom dwellers, burying themselves in the sand. They have mouth and gills underneath and spiracles behind the eyes which is an opening which allows them to draw in water to pass over the gills even when the mouth is buried in sand.

The sting is a venomous barb or spinal blade midway down the tail. The blade is held flat unless the ray is threatened when it is raised and whipped by the tail. The "sting" is not usually dangerous unless it hits a vital spot or the injury is neglected and leads to complications like sepsis. The barb usually breaks off in the wound and may need to be surgically removed. Stings are however very painful and the venom is cytotoxic.

Only 20 deaths from stingrays have been reported worldwide, usually from stepping on the rays buried in sand, or else trying to ride the ray like Steve Irwin, the most famous victim. So don't.

They eat crustaceans and hunt by stealth, pulling up their fins to create suction under them and the unsuspecting prey gets sucked in. This is called tenting. Anyway they have an interesting array of crushing teeth which they shed regularly so next time you are on Stringer there is a competition to find the first stingray tooth. How cool would that be?


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Honeycomb stingray, Himantura leoparda

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Sharpnose stingray, Maculabatis ambigua

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Bluespotted ribbon tail ray, Taeiura lymma

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Bluespotted maskray, Neotrygon caeruleopunctata

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Thorntail stingray, Bathytoshia lata in a sand storm

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Magic Mantas

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Underwater encounters with majestic mantas are right up there with whale shark and dolphin. These graceful gentle giants inspire starstruck awe and an immediate case of the warm fuzzies. They often come in with the dirty green water. So you see perfect visibility and warm flat seas are nice but don't turn your nose up at the soupy green days, mantas eat green!


We had a really unusual sighting this year. Most sightings are fleeting. One flick of their wings, they wheel and turn and they are gone. If you are lucky they will circle especially on the cleaning stations of Bikini and Hopscotch, sometimes they slap the surface when you are riding by in the boat. Don't ever try and run after them. You may as well chase a Lamborghini on a bicycle.


So for about 3 days we found a group of mantas on the surface. The first day there was 2, then 4, then 6. Basically a full squadron. Yep another collective noun!


They were circling just behind the back line feeding and seemingly oblivious to the boat. Groups of snorkelers cautiously entered the water but they paid no heed. What ever that "green" is it must taste good because they did not care.

For those few days we had the chance to snorkel with them. We also found them occasionally visiting the cleaner stations when we were on scuba. One day the manta swam straight at me and tapped my head with its giant wing. I consider it a blessing. May we all be blessed with such encounters.

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Anyway we made a video for you. Enjoy……

All Things Bright and Beautiful

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This is Tyla, our fabulous model who brought her own range of luminous brightness and beauty to our wide angle.

One of the great joys of underwater photography is capturing the kaleidoscope of vivid hues; colour, pattern and form. I still don't understand how or why this visual feast exists when the water filters out the colour and they remain hidden from view until the photo flash reveals them in all their glory. One of life's little mysteries.

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Spotted hawkfish, Cirrhitichthys oxycephalus

  • Gilded triggerfish, Xanthichthys auromarginatus
  • Giant clam mantle , Tridacna tribosa
  • Common lionfish, Pterois miles
  • Gorgeous gussy butterflyfish, Chaetodon guttaissmus
  • Caves on 8 mile
  • Maypole butterflyfish, Chaetodon meyeri
  • Tasseled scorpionfish, Scorpaenops oxycephala
  • Giant clam mantle , Tridacna tribosa
  • Tasseled scorpionfish, Scorpaenopsis oxycephalia
  • Sea goldie, Pseudanthias squamipinnis
  • Trumpetfish (juvenile), Aulostomus chinensis
  • Bluespotted tamarin, Anampses caeruleopunctus
  • Tasseled scorpionfish, Scorpaenops oxycephala
  • Peacock flounder, Bothus mancus
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Rockmover wrasse (Juvenile), Novaculichthys taeniorus

All Creatures Great and Small

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There was no shortage of the big 5 this year, mantas, dolphin, shark, turtles. Just no whale shark sadly. This remains a bittersweet memory in Sodwana. Once so common, now the rarest of sightings.

  • Green turtle
  • Potato bass
  • Green turtle
  • Potato bass
  • Bottle nosed dolphin
  • Manta ray
  • Ragged Tooth shark

And then there are the small guys. The macro in Sodwana never disappoints, finding them remains the challenge as our eyesight fades.


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Here is my favourite macro for Sodwana 2023, the Sea angel or Gymnosomata, a large group of free swimming sea slugs. The foot of the gastropod has developed into wing like appendages which allow them to swim and hover and they are carnivores eating other tiny things in the sea. This one was less than 3 mm and drifted in the ocean at the safety stop but when stimulated they uncurl and dart off randomly. Impossible to photograph unless asleep they remain a challenging project to while away the safety stop.

But over and above the little jelly things there are a range of tiny animals in Sodwana too numerous to mention. Here are just a few for the record this year.


  • Sea Angel
  • Juvenile filefish
  • Harlequin shrimp
  • Hypselodoris regina mating
  • Midas blenny
  • Orangutan crab
  • Ghost pipefish
  • Porcelain crab
  • Cleaner shrimp
  • Thorny seahorse
  • Juvenile scorpionfish
  • Whiocoral gobie
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Longnosed Hawkfish, Oxycirrhites typus

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And the black bushy coral tree, Genus antipathes, where he lives on Roonies reef

All Things Wild and Wonderful

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This is a deviation from the sea theme but this year was a special one in our family because our eldest daughter and her partner, who came to dive with us, became engaged. They chose the beautiful white sands of Sodwana beach to make this commitment and I can think of no place better. Now we have even more unique and outstanding memories tying us this special place.

How's that for Wild and Wonderful!

Anyone for Monochrome?

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Black and white is a genre that has long added mood and texture to photographs. It feels wrong somehow to take the colour out of the bright underwater world but sometimes it adds drama and encourages us to see the artistry of form and look beyond the literal.

What do you think?

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Until We Meet Again

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I will leave you with that thought. I hope you have enjoyed a swim through Sodwana 2023. Thanks for taking the time to look at our passion project. We have such a good relationship with this place that will never get tired or old.

A special shout out to Greg de Valle and the one and only Scuba Centre for the superb service, impeccable dive guides and to all our fellow divers for fun on the boats and under the water.

Hope to see you next year for more fun in the sun and another stunning array of marine creatures.


"Staying on the surface of the ocean all the time is like going to the circus and staring at the outside of the tent"

Dave Berry